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recipes and stories from a tart making caterer

Sunday
Feb122012

A Valentine's Day treasure from the farmers market...

 

My daughter and I were thrilled to discover this early Valentine from the organic produce stand at my local farmer's market.  The first thing she yelled out when she held them up was "oh mommy, you have to put this on your blog!"  So a big bunch of lovely muddy carrots went right into our basket.

 

 

As we were paying for our produce and putting everything into our own bags, the nice guy from Worden Farm asked me if I wanted my carrot tops or should he cut them off for me?  I replied, "no I won't use them but (said in my most self-important-tree-hugging-tone) of course I will compost them."  He said "oh ok , well I was just going to feed the green tops to our goats." Admittedly, I was 'environmentally trumped' by the organic farmer!   So where are my carrot tops now?  In her belly of course...

 

 

I have great memories of meeting the Worden Farm goats at the goat cheese making class that I attended last year.  And with the sweet carrots we made our favorite carrot dish, Carrots Provençal, caramelized with garlic and oil cured black olives, inspired by Patricia Wells.

 

 

Carrots Provençal

2 pounds of carrots, peeled and sliced on the diagonal

2 tablespoons olive oil

10 garlic cloves, cut in half

1/4 cup oil cured black olives, cut in half

kosher salt to taste

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil and add the carrots.  Reduce the heat to medium low. Cover and braise for about 20 minutes, stirring regularly.  Add garlic and salt to taste (keeping in mind that the olives will add a lot of saltiness) and braise for 10 to 15 minutes longer, continuing to stir regularly, until the carrots and garlic are soft and caramelized.  Add the olives and stir.  Serve warm or at room temperature.

 

For a printable recipe, click here.

 

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Monday
Jan232012

tarte au saumon fumé... smoked salmon tart with caramelized red onions and spinach 

 

It has been a while since I've posted a tart recipe.  Being that it's my namesake, I'm finally back to writing about tarts this week instead of French stews, salads and such.  This is one of my all time favorite savory tarts.  The saltiness of the smoked salmon marries perfectly with the sweetness of the caramelized red onions.  

 

 

I made these last week for a luncheon that I catered.  My poor daughter had a cold and was home from school, so I baked "chez moi" instead of  at the commercial kitchen.  I bought this shoe rack years back to use as a cooling rack for my home kitchen.  It accommodates eight 10" tarts and it really saves on valuable counter space when I'm baking a large quantity of tarts at home.  

The whole wheat crust (found here) goes nicely with this tart for a more wholesome option.

 

 

The fresh organic spinach is literally piled into the tart shell... so healthy.

 

 

And then the caramelized red onions and smoked salmon go on top of the spinach.  Finally I pour the custard over the top of everything and bake.  

I like to use hot smoked salmon (known as kippering) which is firmer and sold in fillets as opposed to cold smoked salmon  (also called Nova Lox) which is softer and usually thinly sliced.  The hot smoked salmon flakes nicely and is ideal for this recipe.

 

Smoked Salmon Tart

1/2 medium sized red onion - chopped

2 tablespoons butter

2 cups fresh spinach - chopped

4 eggs

1 cup cream

1/2 cup whole milk

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 

1 1/2 cups flaked smoked salmon

1 recipe pate brisée - basic pastry dough - pre-baked (see below)

 

preheat oven to 375 degrees

Melt the butter on medium heat.  Add the chopped red onion.  Caramelize the red onion for 10 minutes until the onions are soft and lightly browned.  In a large bowl whisk the eggs.  Add the cream, milk, salt and nutmeg and whisk together until smooth.  Place the chopped spinach in an even layer in the pre-baked tart shell. Arrange the caramelized red onion over the spinach followed by the smoked trout on the top. Pour the batter over the trout, spinach and red onion into the tart shell until full.  Baked for 30 minutes until golden brown.

 

Pâte Brisée - basic pastry dough

I use this basic dough recipe for most of my savoy tarts. This dough freezes well so I like to make this dough in a double batch when at home and freeze the other one for later use if I'm not using it right away. I figure if you're going to the effort to make pastry dough then you might as well make two... so this recipe is a double. Remember, the key to a successful and flakey crust is to work quickly and keep the dough cold. You want the butter to remain in little pea sized balls throughout the dough for a flakey crust.  


300 grams flour (2 cups) I like to weigh my flour for more accuracy

1/4 teaspoon salt

14 tablespoons unsalted butter - chopped

1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons ice water

 

In a food processor add the flour and salt and pulse until combined. Add the chopped butter and pulse until the butter is in small pea sized balls. Add the water and pulse until the dough just comes together. 

Put the dough out to a floured surface and make into a large mound and cut in half with a pastry scraper. I like to weigh the halves so that they are equal. Put each half onto a square of wax paper and form into a disk. Wrap with the paper and chill for at least one hour. 

If you are freezing at this time, then wrap again in foil and freeze. Let dough defrost in the refrigerator before use.

Roll out dough on a floured surface into a 13" circle. Place dough into a 10" tart pan and fold the overhang inward and press gently into the sides. Do not force or stretch the dough because a thin spot may cause the filling to leak. The dough edges should be a little bit higher than the side of the tart pan to help prevent shrinkage. Prick the bottom of the shell with your fork. Press a piece of foil (12"x13") into the edges of the shell and cover with the foil completely touching and covering the entire shell. Chill for at least a half an hour. 

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Completely fill the foil covered shell with pie weights or dried beans. Put the shell into the preheated oven and bake for 20 minutes. Take out of the oven and remove beans and foil. Brush the inside of the shell with a beaten egg white to prevent leakage from small cracks. Return to the oven for about 10 minutes and bake until golden brown. Let cool on wire rack.  The shell is ready to fill.


Click here for printable recipe.

 

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Sunday
Jan082012

mediterranean quinoa salad... a salubrious colorful salad for a healthy colorful new year!

 

 

... and it even matches my funky new ottoman.  

I'm ready for an awesome year! How about you?  I have many blessings in my life, but good health is one that I never wish to take for granted.   My hope is to not become a person who only appreciates good health once it is lacking, so I intend to do what I can NOW to maintain and enjoy my health.  

This Wednesday I'm catering a Wellness Luncheon, where the speaker, Dr. Caroline Cederquist, is speaking about "Living Longer, Living Better"... just what I'd like to hear.  She also happens to follow a gluten free diet so I decided to make this Mediterranean quinoa salad with fennel spiced chicken breasts.  It is packed with flavor and color in every bite.  As much as I adore them, this is no place for a buttery crusted tart.  

As I mentioned before in the post about "quinoa, mango and black bean salad," the ancient grain, quinoa, (pronounced keen-wha) is native to South America was once called "gold of the Incas."  Believed to be cultivated over 4000 years ago, quinoa is being rediscovered due to its healthful benefits of being a complete source of protein and gluten free.  I find quinoa to have a very mild nutty flavor but it absorbs other flavors in a dish extremely well. Therefore it is very versatile showing up on plates in America in many different ways.

Here's to your health!

 

Mediterranean quinoa salad with fennel spiced chicken breasts

1 cup quinoa

3 tablespoons lemon juice

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 cups grape tomatoes, sliced in half

1 yellow pepper, seeded and diced

1 cucumber, seeded and diced

1/4 red onion (1/2 cup red onion) minced

1 cup black oil cured olives, chopped

1/2 cup feta cheese

1 large handful fresh parsley or basil, chopped

salt and pepper to taste

2 boneless skinless chicken breasts (optional)

3 tablespoons fennel spice rub (optional) (see recipe below) (the same rub I used in last week's cassoulet)

Rinse quinoa well before cooking.  Bring two cups of water to a boil and add the quinoa.  Reduce to a simmer and simmer 15 minutes until tender.  

For the optional chicken breasts... preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a sheet pan with foil.  Drizzle the chicken breasts with a touch of olive oil and rub with the fennel spice mixture.  Bake in the oven for 20 minutes until the chicken breasts are cooked through.  Let cool for 5 minutes and then cut breasts into bite sized pieces.

In a large bowl, add the lemon juice and olive oil and mix well.  Add the quinoa and let sit 5 minutes to absorb the dressing.  Add the chopped vegetables, olives, feta cheese, parsley and (optional chicken breast). Season with salt and pepper to taste. (remember the olives already add a lot of saltiness).  Gently stir.  Serve at cool or at room temperature on a bed of mixed greens.

Fennel Spice Rub

1/2 cup fennel seeds

1 1/2 tablespoons coriander seeds

1 tablespoon peppercorns

1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt

Toast the fennel seeds, coriander seeds, and peppercorns in a heavy pan over medium heat until light brown and fragrant, stirring frequently as they can burn easily.  Let them cool and then place the toasted seeds and salt in a spice grinder or coffee grinder and blend to a find powder.  Store in an airtight jar.

 

For printable recipe, click here.

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Saturday
Dec312011

Cassoulet... a French peasant dish steeped in history and religion

 

Happy New Year!!  

Nothing warms the soul better than a cassoulet eaten with family and friends.  This rich and hearty slow cooked stew is meant to be served for large communal gatherings as the steaming center piece of the table. Originating from southwestern France's Languedoc region, this earthy casserole consists of white beans, meat (typically pork sausage, duck confit, goose and sometimes lamb) and herbs.   Natives of this region link their cultural identity to this archetypical dish and as with many authentic dishes, several regional variations exist.  A dish of humble beginnings, it is named after its traditional cooking vessel, the cassole, a deep earthenware pot. 

Cassoulet is said to date back to the 14th century siege of Castelnaudary during the Hundred Years' War, when the citizens created this earthy communal dish.  Carcassonne and Toulouse have also laid claim to the true recipe.  In a conciliatory effort, in 1929, chef Prosper Montagné coined a famous saying... "Le Cassoulet est le dieu de la cuisine occitane.  Un Dieu en trois personnes: Dieu le père est celui de Castelnaudary, Dieu le fils est celui de Carcassonne et le Saint-Esprit qui est celui de Toulouse."  (Cassoulet is the god of Occitan cuisine.  A God of three persons:  God the father is that of Castelnaudary, God the son is that of Carcassonne, the Holy Spirit is that of Toulouse.)

My version is far from the "trinity", as it was a family Friday night dinner in Naples, Florida... but it did capture the same communal spirit as the original.  It includes roasted root vegetables such as parsnips, Brussels sprouts, carrots, and onions and chicken thighs spiced with toasted fennel and, bien sûr, white beans.

 

 

The last trip to France for my mother was the month before she was diagnosed with cancer and began her three year battle.  She and my father had fulfilled her dream of seeing every corner of France in a month long journey.  Being a great Francophile, she studied French weekly with Madame, and was a great enthusiast of French cuisine.  One of the many highlights of this trip for her was on a rainy day in the walled city of Carcassonne.  My parents sat down to a hearty bowl of steaming cassoulet in the cozy restaurant, Le Trouvère... the ideal setting for experiencing an authentic cassoulet.  I treasure these photos of my mother living her dream and enjoying life to the fullest.

 

Cassoulet with white beans, roasted root vegetables, and fennel spiced chicken thighs

(adapted from a recipe of Michael Chiarello)

15 medium Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut in half

2 medium red onions, cut into eights 

3 medium parsnips, cut in half lengthwise and then cut into one inch pieces

3 medium carrots, cut in half lengthwise and then cut into one inch pieces

3 celery stalks, cut into one inch pieces

1/4 cup fennel spice rub (recipe follows) reserve 2 tablespoons

6 boneless skinless chicken thighs 

3 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 pound thickly cut bacon, cut into 1 inch pieces

two 15.5 cans white beans (Great Northern)

1 cup low sodium chicken stock

olive oil

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

On a two large sheet pans lined with foil, spread out the vegetables and toss with some olive oil and salt and pepper.  Roast for about 45 minutes, stirring every fifteen minutes, until the vegetables are tender and golden.

Lay the chicken thighs on a sheet pan covered with foil and rub on both sides with all but 2 tablespoons of the fennel spice mixture.  Roast in oven for 15 minutes.  

In a large cast iron casserole dish (Le Creuset) cook the bacon over medium high heat until done, Pour of all but 2 tablespoons of the grease and add the garlic, cooking and stirring for one minute.  Add the vegetables and the remaining two tablespoons of the fennel spice mixture and gently stir.  Add the chicken, 2 cans of white beans and chicken stock.  Bring to a simmer and then place into the oven for 20 - 25 minutes.  Add more chicken stock if needed to bring to the desired consistency.  Serve and enjoy with family and friends.

Fennel Spice Rub

1/2 cup fennel seeds

1 1/2 tablespoons coriander seeds

1 tablespoon peppercorns

1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt

Toast the fennel seeds, coriander seeds, and peppercorns in a heavy pan over medium heat until light brown and fragrant, stirring frequently as they can burn easily.  Let them cool and then place the toasted seeds and salt in a spice grinder or coffee grinder and blend to a find powder.  Store in an airtight jar.

 

For printable recipe, click here.

 

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Monday
Dec192011

Roasted pears in Marsala wine and honey and then drizzled with chocolate ganache

 

If you are one of the 80 people that have signed up for the holiday concert and luncheon tomorrow at Trinity-by-the-Cove, then here is a sneak peek of your dessert that I'm preparing for you.  These pears are gently roasted in Marsala wine and honey which only enhance their "peary" flavor... not too sweet.  

If you are reader from afar, then please by all means, make these delightful pears during the holidays.  They make an elegant presentation and are very simple to make.  

I'd better get back to "work"  ... baking Tartes de Provence today for the main course and then we have quite a few pears to peel in the morning:)

 

Roasted Pears in Marsala and Honey 

(adapted from a recipe of Mario Batali)

6 firm unripe pears such as Anjou, peeled but stems left on

1/8 cup honey

1 1/4 cup Marsala wine 

1 cup water

pinch of ground cinnamon

1 recipe Chocolate ganache (see below)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.  Do not core pears but cut off the bottoms so that the pears stand up straight. Place them in a 8x8 pan and add the rest of the ingredients to the pan.  Bake for one hour or until tender, basting the pears at least 3 times during the cooking.  The pears can be made a couple hours ahead and kept at room temperature.  Put one pear on each dessert plate and drizzle with chocolate ganache and then dust with powdered sugar.

 

Chocolate Ganache

6 ounces good quality semi sweet chocolate chips

2/3 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon dark corn syrup

In a small sauce pan heat the cream and syrup on medium low heat, just until it simmers.  Turn off heat and add the chocolate chips.  Gently stir untill all the chips are melted and the sauce is smooth.  

 

For printable recipe... click here.

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